A documentary about Anthony Bourdain and his career as a chef, writer and host, revered and renowned for his authentic approach to food, culture, and travel.
“It is considered useful and therapeutic to think about death at least once a day.” This quote is slipped into the documentary’s opening, stunning you and at once making you think. Is this what he thought? Is it true? Bourdain lived a life constantly referencing death in black humor commentary, seemingly having a closer relationship with darkness than others were able to understand. Looking back at it now, the depression seems obvious. It is apparent in his series, where he was paid to travel the world and eat food with interesting people, that he remained isolated.
Morgan Neville directs by using old interviews and audio tracks to make Bourdain’s voice narrate “Roadrunner” and it is helpful to hear his familiar voice. Bourdain lamented that his messed up past stood in the way of fame until he alchemically turned his mess and his experience of working in some of the most exclusive kitchens of Manhattan into a New York Times Bestseller ‘Kitchen Confidential’ that ultimately earned him international fame.
Neville interviews Bourdain’s friends, his ex-wife, but unfortunately, not Asia Argento. There’s a lot of finger-pointing and criticism of Argento and his relationship, making it unfair to not have her speak. His famous friends, LA-based artist David Choe and chef David Chang share some hilarious and tragic anecdotes about Bourdain. Choe stated he hasn’t cut his hair since his old friend’s death. Eric Ripert, who was the last person with Bourdain in Alsace in 2018 before his death, shares some exquisite words and I’m glad he agreed to be interviewed.
Interviews with producers who worked on his debut TV series “No Reservations” share how he struggled with his initial episodes. During their shoot around Southeast Asia, Bourdain was unhappy and difficult to work with. All that changed when his former boss Lajuiane, the owner of Lea Halles, showed up in Vietnam and helped save the disastrous shoot. This sparked something within and Bourdain finally understood how to host the show.
Orson Welles hated homages but Bourdain lived for them. In every episode, he would reference a film that was shot in that particular country or if a place reminded him of a particular film. “Roadrunner” constantly cross-cuts Bourdain’s favorite films with the documentary’s footage for a cinematic experience.
Bourdain was, at times, correct with his critique of geopolitical issues, in particular imperialism and colonialism, but other times he could be politically naive. While shooting “No Reservations” in Lebanon in 2006, Israeli airstrikes began battering the ancient city of Beirut. Bourdain didn’t want to exploit the crisis but the network wanted the episode aired. Witnessing Israel’s aggression, he took a side of Lebanon. Other times he was gullible or possibly coached by his CNN producers to champion the coups in Myanmar and Libya. Ever since those episodes aired, both countries have fallen into further disaster. Thankfully, when he went to Laos, he witnessed Kissinger’s and America’s failed foreign policy. “Every American should see the results of war, see the world with open eyes,” he said. Sometimes he knew when not to speak his mind. In Haiti, he said “I don’t know” which is always an intelligent and acceptable response instead of guessing with authority.
He wanted to feel things. He replaced drugs for intense experiences like traveling rugged countries. His heroes were musicians and writers like Joey Ramone, William S. Burroughs, and Hunter S. Thompson. He, unfortunately, thought to become a successful artist he had to try drugs or feel pain. It’s a toxic trait to think great art comes through suffering, it comes from experiences and inspiration. He embodied a specific version of American masculinity. Everyone I know revered him, feeling a personal connection to his wanderlust. I can’t say I don’t feel the same. Many of us have idolized him and we should learn to be more open-minded, to listen, and to use critical thinking.
“Roadrunner” recently premiered at the 2021 AFI DOCS Film Festival
and will arrive in theaters Friday, July 16th
