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A documentary portrait that takes us into Jonathan Gold’s universe to tell the improbable story of a revolution inspired by the pen, but driven by the palate.
Laura Gabbert’s documentary, “City of Gold” highlights the life and career of the first Pulitzer prize-winning food critic, Jonathan Gold, whose love for Los Angeles and passion for discovering hidden cultural treasure troves via food is both endearing and fascinating. We are taken on a culinary tour of food trucks and local family owned restaurants with food that carries the heft of history and nurtures immigrant roots. We are also introduced to the concept of how a taco should be bestowed the honor of becoming a verb, an action and process of love (I couldn’t agree more). At first glance you aren’t sure if this is a ride you want to go on but you’re quickly enamored by a city with good eats and a critic whose prose is golden.
Jonathan Gold is a different sort of cat. A distinct figure with a Hitchcockian profile, and owner of a staircase with hundreds of stacked books accenting the wall, he marks his start out into the world as a “failed cellist” first and how his critic career that sparked out boredom while working as a proofreader. He decided to set out on an adventure and conquer every eatery on Pico Boulevard, which is no easy feat as it stretches from downtown to Santa Monica. While much of the film we see him stop by a few hole-in-the-wall places he’s saved with his glowing reviews, and introducing us to some of the stranger dishes and creatures he’s eaten, like the ever-perplexing hagfish, he is also our Homer or Virgil, our epic poet guiding us through the sprawling city of L.A. and all of its history and intertwining cultures.
You gather quickly that Jonathan Gold is damn brilliant. His interests are as varied as his palate and his wealth of knowledge and drive to know more is what makes him a solid critic and culture commentator. His words are both heavy and playful as they lay on the pulse of the city.
In between glimpses of him eating Korean street food and lauding tacos, you are introduced to those who are in awe of his work (like Andrew Zimmern from “Bizarre Foods”) and to his wife, and at times editor, Laurie Ochoa, and their children. They are an interesting family unit and it is fun to see husband and wife share a meal and bounce ideas off one another, or examine a family outing at an art museum. Gold is an affable character who defaces the caricature of the cavalier critic.
There is little bad in Gabbert’s “City of Gold.” It’s a documentary that strictly sticks to singing high praises of Gold, only briefly examining his lax take on deadlines and burdensome procrastination. It also completely disregards the impact of Gold’s negative reviews which would have been interesting to touch on at least briefly as I doubt it would taint the saintly image of Gold portrayed throughout the film. But overall “City of Gold,” is an entertaining, and at times poignant, portrait of a critic’s love for food and tribute to a city with unique roots and appetites.
Now playing at the Landmark Magnolia Theatre in Dallas
